Mirador Mansions is "not as famous" as Chungking Mansions (featured in Wong Kar-Wai's 1994 film Chungking Express) "but entertaining nonetheless." It has "more weirdos" and "more confused backpackers." DK Eyewitness Top 10 Hong Kong travel guide.
I am one of those confused backpackers! I'm now reporting from Hong Kong's armpit mistakenly named Mirador Mansions. It is no mansion, my friends. It is 16 floors of sweat shops, drug-dealing dens, closet-sized rent-a-room brothels, several reputable business establishments, temporary living quarters for hordes of African, Indian, and mainland Chinese immigrants, and too cheap backpackers like myself. However, it has taken me a few days to figure this out.
It has taken me countless elevator rides with death staring African men and curious staring Indian men. I'm beginning to see my cleavage as a curse instead of a lovely asset. My cleavage and curves has lead me to interesting conversations with a number of African brothers which only seem to take place in the confines of elevators.
It is a conversation that is based on the alliance of skin color. I can see it in their eyes. They have this twinkle in their eyes which I call the "Oh, it is a Black woman" look. They are excited to see me. And I am surprised yet happy to see them. I get happy when I see Black folks far from the North American borders. However, our temporary and pleasant alliance of skin color tends to be short-lived. The normal interaction that occurs is that after inspecting me for a minute or two, I get asked the magic question.
Man: Where are you from?
Ms. World: America.
Man: Oh!
Our alliance of skin color seemingly dissolves at the mention of my nationality. Did I say something wrong? Did I do something to offend them? I thought I was being decent by submitting to the annual Black woman inspection which I find somewhat degrading since I'm not being auctioned for sale later this afternoon. Is there something wrong with being from the U.S.A.? Should I lie about my nation of origin?
I have found a few more adventurous African brothers will continue the conversation with me.
Ms. World: Where are you from?
Man: Senegal, Tanzania, etc. Do you know where it is?
Ms. World in an annoyed voice: Yes. It is a West/East African nation.
Man: Oh!
These more adventurous African brothers actually piss me off a little because they assume I don't know anything about the land which accounts for my lovely skin color. I know Americans have a worldwide reputation for being geography illiterate but some of us are informed. I also must add that I'm up on my West and East Africa geography. However, I will confess that I'm not too confident about my geographic knowledge on Central African nations.
My first night in Hong Kong, I decided to escape the mansion and have a look around the always too bright Kowloon district. I stepped into my first death staring experience with an African brother who didn't see a need to speak with the new Black woman with a very confused look in her eyes. I stepped out of the elevator because I thought it had landed on the ground floor. It hadn't.
I wandered around Dante's Hong Kong purgatory becoming increasingly fearful for my life. However, GOD is merciful and I heard an American voice speak to me in the dungeons. "Where are you going?" the Asian-American woman said.
This is how I met Diva S. a freshly minted law school graduate from Georgetown University who was basking in the glory of completing the New York bar exam. Since I'm a big fan of Diva Chai's weblog which documented the horror and hell of preparing for the California bar exam, I had some knowledge of Diva S.'s current mental state which seemed intent on indulging in lots of rest and relaxation. However, Diva S. had ventured into an unknown dungeon of seediness by booking a room at the Mirador Mansion.
Diva S. and I chatted as we wandered around Hong Kong's purgatory trying to find the front entrance. We were eventually successful and made our way out of the front entrance. This is where I noticed an interesting gathering. There were size-able numbers of African and Indian men hanging on the corners of Kowloon. I thought to myself, "Why are these men hanging on the corner?" as I explored the alleys and corners of Kowloon. I would realize a few answers to my question in the coming days.
There is a level of cross-cultural unity being played out in front of the Mirador Mansions which is a little heartening to my African-American/South Asia/Internationalist loving heart. However, it is a cross-cultural unity based on the black market economies of Hong Kong.
Diva S. and I eventually had a quick yet yummy very late dinner of Southeast Asian food. We decided to make our way back the mansion. However, before we could return to the dungeon of seediness to lay our humbled heads down, we proceeded to walk around in circles for at least 30 minutes. This was unknowingly a sign of what was to come during the next few days in Hong Kong for me. I would walk around in circles for hours. On Monday, I spent over an hour looking for a restroom in a tourist attraction. I eventually took a ferry ride in order to use the toilet.
Eventually, Diva S. and I got our bearings and made our way back to the mansion. It was now after midnight so weren't allowed to freely walk into the building. Two Chinese men dressed in security guard uniforms handed us a form to fill out. The form required me to give my name, nationality, passport number, and place where I was going. All of this information is required for me to get into Hong Kong's armpit to lay my confused head down.
I scribbled down my surname and gave a fake passport number. There was no way in hell I was going to give anyone associated with this dungeon of seediness my passport number. I knew I was getting off easy. I was an American, therefore I didn't have to show my actual passport or documentation like the Africans and Indians.
I made my way to my hostel room. I tried to come to terms with the fact that my cheapness had put myself in a very weird and scary situation. I had made a reservation on an backpackers accomodation website for the cheapest room I could find in the Kowloon district of Hong Kong. Boston Spice and Sexxy Jimmy had warned me that any bed for less than $20USD in Hong Kong had to be seedy. I couldn't be bothered to listen to their advice because all I was focusing on my bottomline.
I was now in possession of two keys for a room where I was renting a dormitory bed for about $9 USD. My Hong Kong accommodation cost would come to about $40USD which was a hardcore backpacker's badge of authenticity. I was keepin' it real backpacking style! I also thought if I could handle staying at the mansion, then I could lay my head almost anywhere in the world.
I am a woman of priorities. My priorities while traveling are to explore the culture and indulge in exploits that are beyond my everyday realm of possibilities. This has meant that I spend my money on winery tours in Australia, buying Buddhist art in Thailand, snorkeling on Australia's Great Barrier Reef, purchasing jewelry with Egyptian hieroglyphics for family members in Luxor. I can do all of this because I'll spend as little dollars possible on my accommodations. I only need a clean place to sleep, warm water to bath, and air-condition in hot climates. I don't need a double-bed, satellite TV, or pretty interiors.
I walked into my $9USD accommodation to find a bevy of testosterone in action. I was shocked! I had booked a bed in a 6-bed mixed dormitory room. Unfortunately, I was the mix! It was all guys and me! "Where is the other girl?" I whined to myself. "I thought this was a mixed dorm. I really don't want to be in a room full of guys."
Fortunately, three guys are harmless Brits and the other two guys are non-talking North Americans. Once I made peace with the fact that I really can be so cheap to sleep in a dorm room with 5 strange guys, I decided it was time to conquer the next hurdle-the bathroom!
There are 3 bathrooms in my section of the hostel. The bathroom is a very tiny room occupied by a toilet, a sink, a toilet paper dispenser, a number of hooks to hang clothing, and a shower head. If I was looking for a way to kill myself, I could walk around in a circle very fast and run smack into the wall. However, I have no interest in killing myself but simply fancy a shower. Japan has taught me the art of moving around very small spaces. I delicately remove all clothing and hang it on the hooks before showering. This step takes considerable time because my latest nightmare is that my clothing and other items will fall on the dirty and wet floor. I'm scared of the floor! Alas, I conquered the bathroom.
There is also a weird occurrence that has happened twice in the early evening. I was in the hostel room talking to a harmless Brit, when a Chinese man came into the room. He pushed some bags around and left. Then he came back with a futon and sleeping bag. The harmless Brit and I watched this stranger (to us) take a nap on our floor. We were stunned. Who was this man? Were the hostel owners subleasing sleeping space on the floor?
My first night of sleep in the dungeon of seediness went very well. I wasn't attacked, kidnapped, or raped. I enjoyed the strong gust of air-conditioned air throughout the night. I woke up on Monday morning alive and well.
Monday was my first full day in the hyper metropolis called Hong Kong. My first duty of the day was to find a cafe where I could sit and sip too hot coffee, read all the tourist information I gathered at the airport and plot my itinerary for the next few days. I was searching for a cafe when I come upon another interesting sight. There were a number of Indian women hanging on the street corners near the Mirador Mansion area.
"Why are these women hanging on the corner?," I pondered to myself. Some women were dressed in colorful and sometimes glittery salwar kameezes. A few women were dressed in Western fashion with a little too much make-up. It took me a few minutes to understand that these women were selling themselves. It was the make-up which actually tipped me off to this fact. And once I realized this, I was thoroughly shocked. I also finally understood how profoundly naive I am about the world.
I was returning to the dungeon of seediness on Tuesday evening when my hunches about the women were confirmed. I witnessed a Chinese man crossing the street, then a plump and pretty Indian woman in pink walking behind him. The Chinese man said, "How much?" The Indian woman gave him an answer. I was shocked and continued to make my way to the purgatory where I passed a row of Indian women sitting on some steps being lectured to by the head madam in an Indian language. Then I passed by a crowd of African and Indian men.
The Indian men always have this look of total bewilderment on their faces when I walk out and into the purgatory. All-non Asians stick out in Hong Kong but I think Black women stick out even more. I have a feeling the Indian men are trying to ascertain if I'm a tourist or down with their crew.
I was waiting for the elevator to the my personal room in the dungeon when the Chinese man and Indian woman from a few minutes early showed up in the lobby to catch an elevator. I kept staring at at the lobby bulletin board because I didn't want to look like I was watching them. However, I'm a trained journalist who is naive yet has keen extincts. I was keep tabs on their interaction while noting an interaction between an Indian man and a Chinese woman. I also think the area is home to some gay male hustlers too.
All of this observation still left one question unanswered. What are the African and Indian men doing on the corner? A few guys in my mixed dorm room have been offered drugs or prostitutes. I've also been accosted by way too many Indian men offering to lead me to a secret location where I could buy all the fake Gucci, LVMH, or Dior handbags a girl could dream off.
There are also lots of tailors who are dying to make me a suit or dress. Unfortunately, I'm one of those "keepin' it real" backpackers who sees no need for more than 10 pieces of clothing (excluding underwear, socks, & pajamas).
I also think some Indian men, African men and women work in the sweat shops in Mirador Mansions. Of course, when the sweat shop workers and the other workers pass by each other in the elevators in purgatory, uneasy looks are exchanged. I was in the midst of one of these exchanges. An Indian man with a beard got on the elevator which held me, a Chinese man, and two African brothers. The Indian man and the Chinese man kept staring at me and the African brothers like they knew I was being pimped out.
Please note that I'm not being pimped out. Honestly, my clothing is too backpackerish to be alluring to the fashionable Hong Kongites. The natives of this special Chinese territory keep looking at my shoes and giving me weird looks. I guess they really don't think trekking shoes go with my capri pants and casual blouses. I'm a backpacker! Screw fashion, I need to comfortable and have a bag light enough to travel with ease.
Finally, what are my thoughts on Hong Kong? I think they should change the special territory's name to "THIS IS HONG KONG BITCH!" The city has completely overwhelmed all of my senses. I've barely been able to find my way through the mazes called streets in Kowloon and on Hong Kong Island.
I basically came to Hong Kong to get my fortune told at the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple which you can read about in my book, to eat yummy Chinese food, to visit an large bookstore with a hefty English-language section, enjoy the night market, and because I wanted to see it all. Fortunately, I've done much more than that and enjoyed myself thoroughly.
But my exposure to the other Hong Kong- the one you won't read about on the glossy pages of Travel and Leisure or get detailed touring information in Let's Go travel guides has been an eyeopening education on the realities of the world. I've realized that I may have grown up without a lot of economic means at my family's disposal but I was also very sheltered from a lot of life's hardships.
Please note that I hope I haven't offended any people of African, Indian, Chinese, British, or American descent in the telling of my Hong Kong report. I have no intent to portray anyone or group of people in a bad light. This is my experience which was partly brought on by being very cheap.
Please note I will post some photos later.
Having travelled throughout Asia a lot over the past 10 years, I can only say that it is a wonderful and beautiful part of the world. So different to what we have in the west, and the food, people and culture are so fascinating and every country I have been to, including Vietnam, Laos, the Phillipines and Korea all have something different to offer. Japan itself is sensational, and having eaten a lot of Japanese food, well... I am hooked.
Posted by: Andy | September 18, 2008 at 09:12 PM
Miss black American,
Sounds like you neither want to be looked at nor talked to by black men?, i didn't know one could be offended by being greeted by a black person, i apologies on behalf of my black brothers, so my advise is stay in your room in the states and only go to Britain to the home of the harmless Brits.
I can't believe you could generalize and prejudge your fellow blacks so harshly, what a shame Micheal Jackson wona be?.You remind me of the stories after the Louisiana floods, when ever they saw a black man on deserted streets he had to be looking for something to lot and a white guy on the street was looking for food. You claim to be informed yet you refer to blacks as bad people, ever heard of guys like Barack Obama, Martin Luther and how about the many brothers "soldiers" who have died in American wars around the world?.
You claim you are lady of priorities! but when you get priorities you whine. And true you are profoundly naive about the world if you were shocked to see women selling themselves. I thought you should be feeling sorry for these women, some never choose that life, they are tricked and they end up that way! as a women you should have talked to them and advise them, not ridicule, i guess you couldn't cause you were busy talking to the harmless Brits!!
And speaking of women selling themselves! ever heard of red light districts, they are all over the states, and in case you don't know, America is the highest consumer of drugs, arguably has the highest criminal rate in the world, high figures of street beggars/homes less, highest number of gays in the world.
Ending this, for what i have ascertained about you, lying about your passport number to authorities and referring to HONG KONG as a BITCH!".People should not be surprised by your attitude and prejudice you have about people and other countries.
I can't imagine what would befall Africans,Asians and Arabs if you were a Judge and they were aligned before you. Only God knows.
God bless
Posted by: Mutumba Faisal | September 17, 2008 at 02:22 AM
This is my first time visiting your site and i must say i like it a lot.
Your article was an educationa read.
I will surely come back here more often!
hooka
Posted by: hooka | August 26, 2008 at 08:38 PM
Oh god, i remember Mirador Mansion. I though it would be better than Chung King mansions, but boy was I WRONG!
I stayed at the Mirador Hostel (which is the same place as the Traveller's Friendship hostel and USA hostel and New Kowloon Hostel! What a scam!) and was nearly eaten alive by bed bugs in that shoebox of a dorm!
Don't trust the pics on hostelworld!
Both Mirador and Chung King Mansions are complete RATHOLES! It's worth a visit, but I wouldn't want to live there again!
Trust me the place gets even worse after dark! STAY AWAY!
Posted by: Backpacker grrl | April 07, 2008 at 05:07 AM
ms world ,mirador mansion is a great place and full of diversity and character,anybody reading this would think you went to iraq,as usual americans dont travel well as cant relate to places or people that well.I Couldnt believe the way you were running this place down,i stayed there for one year and made some great friends.
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Posted by: ggdhfyj | October 23, 2007 at 08:12 AM
This is awesome! I love your report - it was great and really reminded me a lot about my first stay in Hong Kong. Keep up the great writing! I want to see more!
Posted by: Ronald Reagan | May 28, 2007 at 11:39 AM
yeah, we stare. it's part of our culture to stare. just ignore, that is the best advice. i'm glad you are bloggin and traveling gf.
Posted by: Juno888 | May 11, 2007 at 02:39 AM
hey there,
i'm a blaqtino living part time in Hong Kong...Kowloon to be exact. you're stories are funny! are you still in town?
Posted by: claire | August 11, 2006 at 05:22 AM
I stayed at Mirador Mansions once, but being male I never had problems with the African guys, Indians, everyone. And yeah, I know that corner where the blacks hang-out. I even hung around with them at night, while sipping beer I bought from the nearby 7-11. It's a great place, you just have to trust them and be as friendly as possible. I begged-off from one indecent proposal made to me by one of those Indian girls "selling" themselves. I have all the pity for them, but that's life they say. Hong Kong is a great place. Mirador Mansions is not that bad, too. But next time, try the $21-room, it's safer by yourself. Never mind the cheaper nine-dollar rooms where you have to share with other people. Try the USA HOTEL, If I can remember right it is on the 14th floor. Anyway, this is a nice post.
Posted by: Karl | June 13, 2006 at 06:31 AM
I think you his given an unfair impression. Mirador and Chunking Mansions are seedy and intimidating but this is because they are big, easy to get lost in, and unusual looking. This is all also part of the charm. You should use caution anywhere but the crime rates in HK, including these buildings, are VERY, VERY low. Overall, Hong Kong is safer than most big cities in America or Europe.
Posted by: Greg | May 06, 2006 at 11:11 PM
I don't agree with the above story. I'm living in Hong Kong now. Whatever you say is true about Hong Kong. But I can tell you for sure that the place you stayed in Hong Kong must be the cheapest of all. Real estate is at its peak in Hong Kong and one of the most expensive things in HK is houses, lands and rents. Rent for 1 night stay should be more than 100 HKD anywhere. I'm talking about the cheapest hotels in HK. I'm not sure how you got a bed for 9HKD in Hong Kong.
So from that I can imagine about the place you stayed in. In which country don't you face problems when you stay in the most local areas. In other countries the problems are even higher, crime rates are more. As far as I know, Hong Kong is one of the most safest country in the world. Even I have been to the places which you mentioned. They are not as bad as you say. People stare at you wherever you go because you look odd. That happens anywhere not only in HK. Your story, in a single line, seems to be an exaggeration. Please understand that I'm not trying to offend; Only I'm trying to say that HK is a real good place to live and work.
Posted by: Ganesh | April 19, 2006 at 06:07 AM
Yo Chinita
It's Diva Marisa from the Japanese New Year crew (aka island spice!)
Zahidha linked me to your site and I laughed with tears as I read this post. It's so wonderful seeing you travel and live your dreams like this. And I ove how reflective you are about these experiences, your stepping back to make sense of it all. Keep it up, i'm a definitely be back!
Posted by: Marisa | August 19, 2005 at 03:10 AM
Awesome post! I laughed out loud in some sections, particularly the "pimping out" discussion. But, be safe - if only so that I can read some more of your incredible posts!
Posted by: nykol | August 17, 2005 at 08:45 AM
Where are you going next? Looking forward to the next post!
Posted by: drh | August 10, 2005 at 12:48 AM
Dear God Cousin!
I think you wrote your travel book in that post!
I am so jealous of you on your travels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Cousin_Ryumi | August 09, 2005 at 02:07 PM
wow, i loved reading that hong kong adventures! i love how informed you came off to the african brothers! thank you for being an disproving the myth that all americans are uninformed. btw, i am loving the new layout..how fun!
Posted by: scorps1027 | August 06, 2005 at 11:07 PM
Great blog! The stories are awesome. Also, thanks for posting a link to my blog.
Posted by: Pondering Negro | August 06, 2005 at 05:31 PM
Wow!
You insight into Hong Kong's seedy underworld is riveting!
I know what you mean about Black women (for the U.S.) sticking out like sore thumbs in unlikely places.
When I went to Palermo... such was the case.
The African men, most of whom spoke immaculate English, helped us out tremendously, and were very hospitable. The African women were a different story, unfortunately. They either stared at us with curiosity written on their faces, or with catty disdain.
In any event, a lot of the European tourists and some of the Italian men thought we were prostitutes... and would pull over in their cars inconspicuously, or my friend and I would be standing off somewhere trying to focus our cameras and take pics of historic buildings, and one of them would sidle up next to us, as if trying to give us some weird signal.
It was wild...
I think the worldview re: Black American women and most women of color in general ain't all that great, unfortunately.
Posted by: coffey0072 | August 06, 2005 at 03:01 PM
Waaaaaaaa! This sounds like the awesomest trip ever, hookas and dealers and sweatshop laborers notwithstanding...
Posted by: sid | August 06, 2005 at 12:32 AM
great post! safe travel. and cherish the adventures....
Posted by: sepoy | August 05, 2005 at 02:46 PM
Hey C!
I've stayed in that hostel before! I was sharing a double room with a friend, so no weird roommates were had. I must say though, I enjoyed the place. It was seedy, but that's part of the charm. But I never had people ask for a passport number before... Be careful! Hong Kong is one of my favourite cities -- enjoy!!
Posted by: Chris | August 05, 2005 at 03:07 AM